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I’m still catching up on posting what I’ve been up to lately. I’m going a little out of order, but trying to keep my thoughts organized with the subjects.

I mentioned that I’m making a chemise a la reine (CalR), because I found some cotton voile on sale. I couldn’t pass it up, even though I was originally looking for something else first.

My original plan was to get some fabric to make a talma wrap in time for the February Antique Elegance Show, but the weather has been so warm. Even though the event I want to wear the CalR to is in November, I decided to not worry about 19th century cold-weather garments and go ahead and buy the cotton voile.

The other reason I bought the fabric is it seemed light and gauzy enough to try some pulled thread whitework embroidery (where you make stitches that warp the actual fabric weave, creating patterns and holes that resemble lace).

I’ve been practicing pulled thread stitches, but ended up struggling here and there. The fabric seemed different compared to the books I was using, and it was difficult to count threads properly to achieve the right look. Just when I felt I was getting it correct with a few stitches, I ended up hating it again.

I’ve been spoiled with my regular embroidery website for learning, and haven’t yet been able to find something as good for pulled thread techniques. I do have a few books, but sometimes it’s just not the same as well made videos — I get the feeling sometimes that written instructions miss steps and don’t give enough tips.

I attended the aforementioned Antique Elegance Show with a friend (I didn’t even bother dressing up), and within minutes of entering I found something to buy!

Tucked away in a basket, was an embroidered handkerchief. It had a lot of embroidery on it, some of it was pulled thread stitches, and best of all the monogram was the same as my last name! I just had to have it. I talked the seller down a little, and picked it up on my way out of the show.

The purchased handkerchief. I didn't bother to press the creases out -- it went right into a bag for storage so I can study it when I'm ready.

The other three corners have this design.

A closeup detail of the monogram section.

I have it handy to study, even though it doesn’t have all of the stitches I hoped to try, but already it helped me realize that the photos in the books are very, very close up shots. I’m trying to keep my work very small, but it’s been helpful.

Originally, I was thinking about embroidering ruffles for the CalR, but I’m leaning more towards plain self-fabric ruffles. I may make ruffled cuffs and accessories for another outfit, especially if I find another lighter, gauzy fabric I love even more.

I’m just happy I lucked out with a couple purchases this year. Sometimes I feel unlucky, never finding anything I need or want to buy (and if I come close, I usually talk myself out of it). I also think having a little more confidence with my sewing skills makes me feel like I deserve nicer fabrics!

I never thought I would purchase things mainly to study. I thought photos online, or looking closely at displays would be enough. Sometimes it is, and up until now I was happy just viewing what others shared publicly. This time, however, I must admit it was nice to purchase a handy study guide. I guess I’ll have to keep an eye out for more items that cover even more stitches. I’ll be especially lucky if little details like a monogram just happen to match up like this one though!

A portion of the painting Portrait of M. and Mme Lavoisier, by Jacques-Louis David, 1788 (Metropolitan Museum)

I’m feeling a little overwhelmed with online stuff lately, and have even started cleaning some places like Twitter and possibly some blogs I follow.

I didn’t realize how overwhelmed I was until I noticed a few days of not reading even one tweet, or clearing out the rest of the blog entries I wasn’t even skimming.

The sad thing is, I do like many of the blogs and people I follow, but I’m starting to hate going anywhere near my computer because it’s a struggle to keep up.

I have been sewing, and I even finished a foundation garment. I don’t remember when I finished it, but I guess it’s time to finally post it on my costumes page.

I’m working on a chemise a la reine (CalR), and instead of wearing my usual pocket hoops, I made a false rump to go with that outfit.

I didn’t really care about too much accuracy, and I made it in a day. The funniest part is, it was actually my second version. I tried a bum roll style the day before, and it was too big and full (with my fear of under stuffing things, I think I’m over stuffing them heh!).

So far, I think this false rump will work fine, and I can always make another version if it turns out to have more flaws than I expected.

My CalR is in progress at the moment, and will be based off the painting at the top of this entry, with a few changes. Since this may be my only chance to make one, I’m deciding what little features and details I prefer over the inspiration version.

Unfortunately, it may be some time before I show the CalR here even when it’s finished because I need to make some other garments to wear with it (a new shift, and two new petticoats), and I have to admit the temptation is strong to also wait until I get the wig!

The reason I chose this particular painting for my inspiration? Her hair (and my favorite color is blue). I have very long hair, past my knees, so doing anything more than just putting it in a bun won’t happen with me sadly! I’m all thumbs with anything more than a plain braid, and that’s a lot of hair to fight with while learning. I’m also very careful with my hair to keep it from damage. The thing I noticed about this painting is that I could wear my real hair in a ponytail gently curled, and plop a wig on top for the rest of it. Everything about this outfit seems like a nice change of pace, even though it still involves stays and long skirts!

I’m hoping to wear this to the next Georgian Picnic in November, so I don’t know why I’m obsessing about it this early. I lucked out and found the fabric on sale, so I guess that’s why I’m working on it. You know how it can be with costume distractions. I do need to find a stopping point so I can get to work on garments with deadlines coming up first!

I also hope to make some other accessories, like a hat. It just depends on what inspires me.

Click the link below to go to the False Rump page and read more about it:

I’m already slow when it comes to finishing a complete costume.

I research the garment itself, I read up on how to do even basic steps (I’m still learning how to sew), I make sure I understand what I need to do, and I fret over making that first cut into the fabric when I’m on a “no turning back” step.

You’d think I would steer clear of anything that would make the process even slower than it already is for me.

Apparently I don’t know any better though.

I’ve been getting into embroidery more and more. At first, it was just a neat challenge for me since I was never able to learn how to do it when I was younger. I didn’t know things like wrapping threads on the back of the work instead of knotting them to start and stop. Even though I knew you shouldn’t cover too much space with long lines of satin stitch, the stitches still weren’t small enough — not to mention, they were definitely not even or smooth.

Then I discovered videos, and other tips online, and realized if you have the right tools and a little patience as well as practice, it’s worth a shot to try those things you thought you could never do.

As if discovering you aren’t a miserable failure wasn’t enough, seeing people’s positive reaction to your finished projects is even more of a confidence booster. 

I keep finding my embroidered mitts on Pinterest boards or on forums (makes me blush and smile every time), and people enjoy looking at them in person. I found that although I don’t reproduce actual historical designs, I enjoy putting something a little more into a project to truly make it mine.

So I guess it’s no real surprise that I have started collecting more books about various types of embroidery and hand finishes (and want even more — I’d love to try tambour, and even try hand quilting some garments). Instead of just adding a purchased ruffle to a current project I’m working on, I’m contemplating hand embroidering my own.

Unfortunately, the practice isn’t going so well.

I’m not sure if it’s the fabric itself or just me. It’s difficult to count close threads for pulled thread techniques — where you use the embroidery stitches to warp the fabric threads themselves, causing patterns and holes to create a lace-like effect. The fabric I’m using is light and gauzy, but the threads are still a little too close together and higher count than I guess I should have used.

Photos of historical garments can be deceptive, because the fabrics in those seem similar to what I’m using. Plus, I’ve already got the fabric — I would hate to have to keep looking and buying fabrics to test, just to find what I need. I don’t like ordering fabric online, because you can’t feel it or get a really good look at the texture unless you’re holding it in person.

I received a few books for Christmas, and found a pulled thread book I’m hoping will help boost my confidence with this style of embroidery.

I wish there were videos and tips that were as good as the ones I’ve learned for regular embroidery, but I’ll just have to make do with what I’ve got.

In the meantime, I’ll keep practicing, testing some things, and coming up with some designs for the projects I’d like to use embroidery on.

I don’t know why I’m so determined to try this. I guess I just want to really make this, and other costumes, truly mine with even more details.

See the link below for more information and photos on this project.

I decided to start making some garments to keep me warm while wearing my costumes.  It’s probably ironic that it was warm enough this past week that the air conditioner broke and the inside of my apartment was around 85 degrees F.

I decided to start with a muff, and I used a style where I can change the covers. I liked the way some of them looked, and it would allow me to have accessories match my outfits.

I don’t know when I might have a chance to pose for better photos in costume. I originally was hoping to have the cold-weather garments finished in time for a mid-February event. I have a bad feeling it might be too warm for my tastes to even wear a heavily layered costume, much less winter garments.

At least I’m making progress to add more accessories, especially useful ones, and they will help give me a little more diversity to my outfits as well.  I am hoping to attend more events this year, and although I have plans to sew more outfits, I have a feeling I’ll be getting sick of wearing the same costumes multiple times. Adding more accessories will help give a little something different to the ensemble and freshen it up for me, I think.

Here is a link to the costume page about the first muff version. I’m going to put all the various covers on this same page as well.

Check the link below for more photos!

Finally! I finished another project — one that has been sitting around gathering dust for a while, at that! And just in time for an event this past Saturday.

I was nervous I wouldn’t even finish in time or that it wouldn’t work out, but I somehow pulled it off. I tried it on for the first time as I was getting ready for the event. Whew!

I made a page in the costume section so you can see photos and information on the construction. See below for the link.

The event was the Dallas Ft Worth Costumers Guild (DFWCG) tea at a local antique shop. The theme was hats… you didn’t need a full costume, but many of us went ahead and made something new for it. I still haven’t finished my husband’s 18th century costume, so he had fun shopping around for a hat to wear.

It was a blast, and a great way to have some fun after the past couple of months I’ve had. These folks are wonderful, supportive, and you’re guaranteed lots of laughs.

The food and tea was lovely, and we were there for a few hours. I had hoped to look around the little antique shop, but I didn’t get very far before others arrived and I stopped to chat with them.

After the tea, we went to a nearby park and took photos. I need to get better at taking photos, but we’re hoping to get a better camera. Phones can be handy for some things, but not for event photos (at least for my needs).

I did set up a Flickr account, and I changed the image gallery setup on my blog. Here are the links for the event photos and the costume information and photos:

It was a great time, and I’m already looking forward to trying to make a few accessories before the next event!

To see more photos from the picnic, click the link at the bottom of this entry, or go to the "Image Gallery" on the header above.

The Dallas Ft Worth Costume Guild (DFWCG) had their third annual Georgian Picnic on November 19th at the Ft Worth Botanical Gardens.

I have wanted to attend since the beginning, but sadly did not have a completed costume.  This year, I finally had one!  I wanted to wear another jacket since I have worn this costume before, but I was trying to finish something for my husband.  Unfortunately, a lot of things came up and distracted me every time I tried to make progress on Christopher’s costume, so I didn’t finish it in time.  We decided it wasn’t worth the stress and there would be other events.

We had a blast, and plenty of people dressed up.  I am still a little unfamiliar with some of the members of this group.  When it first started, I was going to join and then had to stop sewing for a few years.  I’m hoping to finally join in the next month or so, and am looking forward to more events so I can wear the 18th and 19th century costumes I make and meet fellow costumers. Everyone we’ve met through the group has been a blast!

My husband was taking photos for me on our iPhones, and he ended up focusing more on me.  He was a little shy about taking photos of people he hasn’t met before, so I didn’t get as many photos of some of the members.  We’ll get better about it over time.  It can be hard to worry about photos when you’re having fun!  Plus, security at the Gardens thought we were professional photographers, when all we wanted was a few snapshots of our fun time out.

Some of us brought period toys and games to play.  There was a period kite, the game of graces, some wooden toys (like tops) for the kids, and even a yo-yo.  The graphic the DFWCG used to advertise the event showed a period drawing with people playing with diabolos.  A member had a smaller, wooden, period diabolo, but we all had trouble getting it to work.  Christopher and I juggle and have a modern diabolo, so we brought ours out and took photos as well as taught some of the members how to use it.  It was definitely a hit, and at least one person is wanting to buy one to practice for next year’s picnic!

Christopher and I also juggled a little.  Unfortunately, we don’t have period juggling props, but we just can’t resist a little juggling at a picnic in the park!  While I was pleasantly surprised that I could work with the diabolo while wearing my costume, juggling wasn’t as comfortable as I would have liked (mostly due to my mitts, which are unfortunately tight on my hands due to the fabric having less give on the bias than I originally thought).  I only juggled three balls, and didn’t bother with the clubs.

I’ve posted some of my photos (including a few from friends) from the Third Annual DFWCG Georgian Picnic here.

We had a blast, and I’m looking forward to attending future events.  In fact, I’m hoping the weather holds up for a 19th century event coming up!

The outfit I wore to the Antique Elegance Show. Photo by Jen Thompson of FestiveAttyre.com

I attended a show this weekend called the Antique Elegance Show. I met up with fellow costumers, and we had a great time shopping and taking photos. We all dressed up in some of the items we’ve made, and I put the photos we took into the gallery (including some photos Jen of FestiveAttyre.com let me share). You can see the photo gallery here.

I’m feeling a little rushed and clumsy today, so I’m keeping this entry short. I still need to make a page for the new bodice I made to go with the old bustle skirts I had, but I’ll get that up soon (I probably won’t do an entry announcing it).

I also need to start loading those knotting shuttle videos. I’ve been so busy sewing the bodice that I didn’t get to edit the very last video. Unfortunately, they’re so large I might have to do one video a day so I don’t go crazy (especially if I have issues with everything).

Also, there’s no time to rest! I’ve got to start sewing Christopher’s 18th century garments if I can, and maybe finish another project before November. Whew!

My husband reminded me we can watch YouTube videos on our Roku. It was weird and fun to see myself on the TV!

I’m still working on those knotting shuttle videos.  In the meantime, I created a YouTube account, and my husband and I are trying to get used to our video editing software.  I’m also still trying to figure out the format we’ll use for my videos.  Since I’m not sure how much I will actually do with videos, I want to have a little fun with them.

We decided to play with some of the footage we took at the garden during the recent photo shoot. It was fun to play with options for a quick video, not to mention, have my first video of my first 18th century costume!

This video does show me using a knotting shuttle at the end, but it’s not instructional. Those videos will be posted later when we’re finished with them.  I hope the quality is correct.  Since I’m still learning, it’s hard to remember every little thing.  The quality on the iPhone was good, and the Roku/TV version was in HD like it is supposed to be.  What I’ve seen on my computer seems to be lower quality, but that could just be that I need to clear the memory.

The knotting shuttle videos also won’t show me in costume. I wanted the focus to be on my hands and the knotting shuttle itself.  Yet another reason to have a little fun with the first video posted below.

I mentioned that on the day of the photo/video shoot, it was so hot and the videos were taken at the end of the outing. I had sweat pouring off me (it was early in the morning, but Texas has been having very hot weather for a while), and it made it difficult to knot with ease. The thread kept sticking to my fingers, and it was one of the bigger knots that involve capturing several knots in a row.  I also discovered another reason to make my fingerless mitts bigger (the fabric had less give on the bias than I expected, so the pattern turned out tighter on my hands and wrists than I wanted) — my hands stuck to them and it was difficult to take the mitts off!

It was still fun, and it was also a blast to finally have my first video.  Thanks to my husband for making the bulk of it. I definitely had to use it, especially when I realized that I actually don’t have any video of me — costumed or not!  I think it’s time to change that, even if it’s just for our own personal memories.

Let me know if you’re on YouTube as well! I’ve been adding friends and people I know from various place online.  If I can’t tell who someone is, especially if they don’t seem to be into the same things, I may not add them back. I definitely would love to follow other costumers, as well as people who are into the same interests as me.  Best wishes!

Just a quick update to let you know that I’ve added a new page to the costume gallery — my first attempt at trimming a hat.

Also, in order to get some photos to post, we decided to take a trip to a small garden in the area.  It was a very hot day, even though we were there just after dawn.  We had a blast, and I have a lot of those images up in the image gallery.  There are even two photos of me using the knotting shuttle.

The knotting shuttle was the other reason we went to the garden.  I wanted to get some video of me using it and knotting thread.  It was at the end of the photo session, so I didn’t get as much footage as I’d hoped, but I’m sure I’ll be able to use it somewhere.

I still intend to make those knotting videos — my husband and I have just been very busy, and I’m new to the editing software. I’m also testing out a few other things involving the knotting and embroidery before I finish all of the videos.

I hope everyone is staying cool and having fun sewing. Best wishes!

The cadadh I started -- we decided to stop working on it and just buy the type we need. The fabric most likely won't hold up, and it wasn't even the color we originally wanted.

I tried working on accessories for my husband last week.  The good news is, I have a pattern to work with for different versions later, but we’ve decided to just buy these for now.

Cadadh

I tried to make cadadh, or bag hose, for my husband’s 18th century Highland costume.  The problem is that he’s going for a fancier look, and I had my heart set on a castellated or similar top, instead of plain or fold-over cuff.

It’s difficult to be happy with something when you’re trying to make it fancier than you’d normally make.

The fabric

The biggest issue is the fabric. The colors are nice (I love blue), but we had hoped for red and black diced fabric.

The color wasn’t the only problem with the fabric. It was one of the first items we purchased when we decided to do 18th century costuming, so I can’t even remember what type of fabric it is. I only remember thinking it was probably one of the few times I would find diced fabric, so we bought it.

At the time, it had very little give even on the bias. I worried it would be uncomfortable for Christopher to wear. Once I washed it however, it was almost too flimsy.

When I cut it out following the pattern I’d made, it ended up HUGE in the calf.  I’m still not sure how that happened since I was careful. I expected a possibility of a little difference, but not that much.  It was an easy fix though, I just took it in even more. The fit was perfect. My husband loves how it feels, and said it was very comfortable.

Unfortunately, I noticed another issue with the fabric: holes and unraveling.

As I was hand sewing, I would catch glimpses of light from behind the fabric and realized the needle was leaving holes bigger than it should have been. I tried to fix the seams as best I could, but my husband goes through socks fast.  I just knew the cadadh would not last very long.

The fancy top

Instead of doing the plain cuff, we decided to try out a fancier version. That’s when we really realized the fabric wasn’t worth it. I had to keep the seams in the little triangles small, but the fabric issues were worse there.  I was already seeing ragged chunks of fabric fraying at the seams.

I would have needed to do a little more work to get the top edge to lay correctly when he was wearing the cadadh (I had to use another fabric cut on the bias to help give it a little more strength and keep it from stretching out more), but we decided to just stop at that point.  I didn’t even finish turning the points out.

The pattern

It’s not a total loss, however. My husband will also have costumes with breeches, so he’ll need regular stockings.  I feel very confident this pattern will work fine for those, or even regular cadadh if we find the right fabric.

Sometimes it’s better to just buy something for now

I also learned a lot, and got to test out some ideas. We just felt my time could be better spent elsewhere. Not to mention, since he wears a regular kilt, it’s nice to invest in accessories he can wear for both. We had asked a sporran maker who was familiar with 18th century, and he knew we weren’t going for re-enacting or 100% authenticity. He recommended a sporran type that will work for both 18th century costuming group needs, but not look out of place with modern kilt-wearing.