The Yellow Rose Jacket

 

18th century jacketPatterns used:
Patterns of Fashion 1: 1660-1860 (page 26 , view A’s jacket with view C’s sleeves and cuffs), by Janet Arnold.
– Helpful tips from the Rockin’ the Rococo Blog.

Fabrics used:
– Yellow satin fabric, unknown (purchased on sale).
– White cotton fabric for lining and lacing strips.
– Green fabric for cuffs, stomacher, and pinked trim (unknown, gift from friend).

Other materials used:
– White cotton embroidery floss for handsewn eyelets.
– White, green, and yellow all-purpose sewing threads.
– White ribbon for the lacing.

Hand and machine sewing.

I started this jacket a while back, and then ended up annoyed at it and let it sit for a while. Some of the main seams connecting the jacket pieces together (bodice seams, skirt/jacket seam, armhole seams, and the gathering thread for the trim for example, as well as some serged edges to protect from unraveling over time) were made on machines.

I did try some hand sewing, like attaching the pinked trim, connecting all the linings and outer edges together with the le point a rabattre sous la main stitch (love that stitch). I also used some new-to-me sewing techniques I found on the Rockin’ The Rococo blog, for sewing the sleeves closed and attaching the shoulder straps, as well as attaching the lacing strips to the jacket. The “running pinprick” style stitches were very helpful to me and I like those a lot as well.

This was the original first jacket I planned to make for 18th century costuming. The K Gown’s jacket ended up being first since I already had the fabric, and it had a simple closure with no stomacher. I had never worn a stomacher before, and was a little nervous about fitting and wearing (I was very nervous to rely on pins to attach and close things), so it seemed like a better first attempt. This jacket was meant to be paired with the K Gown’s petticoat, using more of the green fabric (I still have lots left and intend to use more on future projects). I wanted the ability to quickly make a few things to mix and match for a variety of outfits.

I was pressed for time while finishing this jacket, and tried it on for the first time as I was dressing for the event I planned to wear it to. That was cutting it too close! I was relieved that it fit, and although it took a while to put on, it held securely. My fear of using pins to attach or close garments has diminished thankfully.

The stomacher (a simple shape with outer fabric and white lining as the only materials used) is pinned to my stays, the jacket is laced on over that, and then I use a few pins to help tack the very edges of the jacket down to the stomacher.

I tried to shorten the sleeve length a little (but they ended up a little too long still), as well as adding more fullness to the sleeve head — I think that helped keep from pulling the straps off my shoulders like the K Gown jacket does.

I was feeling rushed while attaching the jacket’s skirt, and messed up in the back, ending up with a draping effect. I contemplated taking it apart and trying again, but I knew I wouldn’t have time. I can live with it.

This was also the first time I have ever used pinking shears. I originally was going to use a fuller gathering effect, but I like the less-is-more look and it helped me finish on time as well. I didn’t have time to test which way to cut the trim, so I cut on the straight of the grain which worked okay except for the front curves on the skirt.

All the mistakes are tolerable for my tastes — I view my projects as experiments and learning experiences, even if they don’t work out (it’s nice to see first-hand why they don’t).

I didn’t wear any accessories with this outfit for the first event or these photos. I am hoping to learn whiteworking, to make some cuffs, a neckerchief, and maybe a better cap.

Photos:

18th century jacket

This jacket was made to go with a previous petticoat.

18th century jacket

This was the first time I've ever worn a stomacher, much less made one. It was an interesting project to work on.

 

18th century jacket

I made a lot of mistakes on this jacket, like attaching the jacket's skirt, but I learned a lot and found some of the steps fascinating.

Pinning Stomacher

The stomacher is pinned to my stays, but left unpinned from the waist down so I can flip it up and tie petticoats and accessories under it. The jacket is laced closed over the stomacher, and the edges of the jacket are pinned down to help keep it in place.

Stomacher Pinning

A closeup of one of the pins holding the stomacher to my stays. I use plain, small pins for this.

 

18th century jacket lacing strips

Since I'm not used to pinning things closed, I decided to use lacing to close the jacket along with some pins. I attached lacing strips to the edges of the jacket front.

 

18th century jacket lacing strip attachment

The lacing strips are attached using tiny pinprick stitches. I was nervous to do this on such a shiny fabric, even with the pinked trim helping to cover it. It turned out better than I'd hoped.

sewing 18th century jacket cuffs

Attaching the cuff's lining before sewing them to the sleeves and pleating the cuffs. I need to work on a better way to attach the cuffs to the sleeves though.

 

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